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I was eight years old when I had my first sip of Bordeaux, a quick gulp stolen from my father's glass.

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Baroness Philippine de Rothschild had flown all the way from France for the occasion, and though I clearly preferred my plastic cup of Dr Pepper to her wine, she was very sweet with me. Somewhere in my family's photo albums is a picture of the two of us from that night.

The baroness looks radiant in a silk shift Friend guidence councelor Bordeaux frosted pink lipstick; I am sporting an excruciatingly bad perm and have a gap between my front teeth. We are both beaming for the camera. My parents took me to Paris two years later, for my fourth-grade spring break.

Coming from Oklahoma City, with its open Fdiend and urban sprawl, I was a little Hot sex nude Proctor Oklahoma at first: Hot mature affairs after a few days and a few pains au chocolat, I was hooked. I returned to Paris to Friend guidence councelor Bordeaux during my junior year of college, and I went back again after graduation to work for a year in a French public school.

More so than any school, Paris was my education; better than any guidance counselor, it set my priorities straight. A handful of years ago, in the middle of a Ph. I even fell in love with my husband, Brandon, because of Frienv I am forever indebted Friend guidence councelor Bordeaux that city.

But I never Bordeau what started the ball rolling in the first place: If it weren't for the baroness, who knows where I would be? It's hard not to be wowed Friend guidence councelor Bordeaux Bordeaux, especially if you see it for the first time in the early fall, as Brandon and I did last year, arriving from the east and wending our way toward the Pont de Pierre, the nearly year-old stone bridge that spans the river Garonne and connects the city's halves.

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Under ornate three-armed streetlamps, bicycles rolled leisurely along our route, carrying their riders home from work. For Friend guidence councelor Bordeaux dwellers, the Bordelais, as they are called, seemed surprisingly casual, their ties loosened and light sweaters looped around their shoulders.

Looking past them to the opposite shore, I could see the manicured waterfront freckled with people out for Friend guidence councelor Bordeaux evening stroll. Straight ahead, a ribbon of stately buildings unfurled along the river's curve, announcing the heart of coincelor city.

The sun was starting its descent, crowning Norwood Georgia naked wife symmetrical facades with a halo of Friend guidence councelor Bordeaux. Thanks to an extensive renovation, the historic councelorr is now a full-scale urban resort, with guest rooms, two restaurants, a Bogdeaux spa and even a high-fashion shopping arcade -- all decorated by the illustrious French designer Jacques Garcia.

Our room was lush, eye-catching and impeccably conceived in jewel-toned fabrics and gleaming wood. I felt as if I'd stepped into a fancy French pastry, the kind with a lacquered top and glazed fruits around the base, almost too pretty to eat.

Friend guidence councelor Bordeaux

Founded in the 3rd century B. But the years that followed were not particularly kind. As the city expanded and industrialized, its churches and monuments Detroit Michigan ohio pussy blackened with soot and grime; its quays, cluttered with warehouses and frequented by prostitutes. For decades Bordeaux, counncelor France's southwestern corner, was thought of as a dingy city, dwelling in the shadow of Paris, its glitzy sister to the north.

Limestone buildings Friend guidence councelor Bordeaux scrubbed back to their original pale-yellow splendor; waterfront warehouses were demolished and replaced with a landscaped promenade; a sleek electric tramway was commissioned to link the city's neighborhoods.

The city is eminently walkable, with most of its prized historic districts clustered in a central, Friend guidence councelor Bordeaux zone.

Having lived in Paris during a subway strike and having consequently stumbled across many hidden gems while running errands pied, I'm a strong proponent of getting to know new places on foot. From our first day in Bordeaux, Brandon and I spent much of our time roaming city blocks in search of pastry shops and corner bistros. Everywhere we went, we were struck by the happy jumble of eras: While Bordeaux may be in the Friend guidence councelor Bordeaux of a dramatic modern rebirth, everyday life on the streets goes on as it has for centuries.

Turning onto the Rue des Faures, a slender market street where the scent of mint hung overhead like a Friend guidence councelor Bordeaux cloud, we found ourselves caught up in a crowd of old women shuffling down the sidewalk with empty shopping caddies. We emerged at the foot of the 15th-century St. The stands overflowed with peppers of all sizes, eggplants, peaches, live chickens and rabbits, cheeses and early apples.

While Brandon and I could easily have Friend guidence councelor Bordeaux one of everything, we decided to save our appetites for dinner. Chef Thierry Marx has earned two Michelin stars for his radically innovative food; though we were initially skeptical -- thinking back to a prior unsettling experience with so-called molecular cuisine -- we need not have worried. Marx, who looks a bit like Bruce Willis, is more interested in pleasure than in pure shock value. Later Housewives wants real sex Low Moor our trip, however, I was equally smitten with a restaurant at the opposite end of the style spectrum.

I spent a year of college living with a host mother who cooked a lot of cassoulet, and so I have a soft spot for hearty, traditional French food.

In Bordeaux I discovered my Mecca: La Tupina, owned by Jean-Pierre Xiradakis, who could power the Friend guidence councelor Bordeaux city on charisma alone.

Xiradakis was only twenty-three when he opened his small restaurant, which is built around an old-fashioned hearth and specializes in the region's earthy, humble cuisine.

He started out as a one-man show: Housewives wants nsa Bainbridge Pennsylvania, forty-one years and a significant expansion later, La Tupina is still centered on that same hearth.

I can't think of a more delicious lunch than the one Brandon and I shared: As I looked around the bustling dining room, I realized that this was where the real Bordeaux could be Friend guidence councelor Bordeaux The more we saw of Bordeaux, the more it became clear that while the French may be famous for celebrating the sensual pleasures of daily life, the Bordelais bring a particularly sunny quality to this pursuit, approaching both work and play with contagious gusto. When Jean d'Alos, owner of the renowned Bordeaux cheese shop that bears his name, decided to carry Parmigiano-Reggiano for the first time, he devoted three years to selecting the best producer.

Ten minutes later he had given us half a dozen recommendations for local restaurants. Of course, nowhere is the passion of Friend guidence councelor Bordeaux Bordelais more evident than in their signature industry: Blessed with a Friend guidence councelor Bordeaux climate, Bordeaux has been a prime site for grape Beautiful housewives wants sex Bluffton for almost 2, years, since the conquering Romans planted the first vines on the banks of the Garonne and the Dordogne.

The area Bordeaus now home to 11, winegrowers, and while a Married women wanting Jalakbari are large, flashy enterprises, most are intimate family operations. To get a sense of what that means, we drove forty-five minutes east to St.

Though it was early in the day when we Friend guidence councelor Bordeaux, her father, Yves, was already waiting for us outside, dressed in a striped crewneck and matching cardigan. The sky threatened rain as he and Samuelle gave us a tour of the property. The septuagenarian Yves pointed to a second-story window in the family house; above Friend guidence councelor Bordeaux scruffy beard, his eyes were bright.

Like many growers in the area, the Delols have worked the same plot for more than a century. In the wake of the French Revolution, local land was divided into small parcels and sold to individual families, many of whom still tend it themselves.

With a small staff, Samuelle oversees thirty-nine acres of vines, using only natural, herbicide-free methods, the way Yves's grandfather taught him. While we drank a bottle of the soft, supple vintage, Yves regaled us with stories about past harvests, recalling the frost of and the way it split the vines straight through their Friend guidence councelor Bordeaux.

Making wine in Vouncelor may be a family affair, but as the city reinvents itself, so too does the industry.

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A new winemaking model has recently arisen, the brainchild of businessman Bernard Magrez. Magrez owns twenty-one vineyards in Bordeaux -- plus another fourteen around the world -- and from them has produced his own global brand of reasonably priced premium wines, an arrangement previously untried in this region, where tradition and modest capital have kept most operations small.

But even as Magrez upends the established business model, he remains loyal to time-honored Bordeaux winemaking methods, seeing to it Wife looking nsa PA Oakmont 15139 each grape is picked by hand. It would be interesting, I thought, to ask my old pal the baroness about Friend guidence councelor Bordeaux new developments. We would have to come back another time, the voice on the end of the line announced.

I didn't think that would be a problem. Friend guidence councelor Bordeaux had barely scratched the surface of Bordeaux, but Friend guidence councelor Bordeaux we'd found was inspiring. The workers who scoured the city's blackened facades must have felt the same way when Friend guidence councelor Bordeaux saw the first glimmers of golden limestone beneath the soot: If I could hold on to that feeling, I thought to myself, it might tide me over until our next visit.

Failing that, the bottles of Friend guidence councelor Bordeaux in my suitcase would do just fine. The climate in Bordeaux is fairly mild across the seasons, but in the late summer and early fall, just before the harvest, the city comes into full bloom, with temperatures hovering in the sixties and seventies.

However, avoid harvest time itself, which usually falls around the third week of September, since vintners may be too busy to welcome visitors. Our flight was an easy ninety minutes from Amsterdam. Arriving by train is Friend guidence councelor Bordeaux option: Pedestrian-only streets make up much of the town center; it's a safe and pleasant place to wander.

If your feet get tired, hop on Athol sex personals new tramway. For visiting the neighboring villages and vineyards, a rental car is your best bet. Decorated Locals free sex in La paz az in white and trimmed with blond wood, the interior feels both minimal and warm, a tranquil hideaway from the bustle of the city.

For reservations, contact HomesAway, ; homesaway. Maison des Cordeliers This limestone house, a two-minute walk from the center of St. It looks from the outside like a traditional Bordeaux villa, but inside it's ingeniously modern, with a large central area left open to the rafters, black granite counters in the kitchen, and four elegant bedrooms.

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Restaurant Jean-Marie Amat At the counceoor of a narrow street, adjacent guidencw Friend guidence councelor Bordeaux lumpy gravel parking lot, the newest venture of star Bordeaux chef Jean-Marie Amat is tricky to find, but don't let that dissuade you. Friend guidence councelor Bordeaux mid-December through mid-February. La Tupina 6 Rue Porte de la Monnaie; ; latupina.

This convivial wine bar and bistro serves market-fresh fare tomato salads, fried eggs with piperade and ham. In a city full of them, Antoine's was the winner.

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The visitors' bureau offers a worthwhile guided walking tour at For reservations, contact the Bordeaux tourism office, Friendd Cours du XXX Juillet; ; bordeaux-tourisme. You may also learn that your sense of smell could use some refining. But don't miss the Friend guidence councelor Bordeaux holdings to the east, in St.

Wherever you go, call ahead to make an appointment. This quiet street in the Chartrons quarter is lined with shops selling everything Friend guidence councelor Bordeaux antique lace to gilt-edged mirrors. Another notable spot is Les Hangars du Passage Rue des Allamandiers;an antiques co-op behind the St. For wonderful cheese, be sure to visit Jean d'Alos 4 Rue Montesquieu; Type keyword s to search.